Let's rewind to the beginning of August: I had planned a vacation to Zimbabwe (Harare). It began with a trip on the Gautrain. I don't remember the last time I was so excited. Pity I was travelling alone so I don't have pictures of my stupid grin spread from cheek to cheek. The Gautrain blew my mind but I couldn't help think, I was one of very few South African's who would experience the simplicity and thrill. Later, I found out that thieves were stealing the cables required to run the train. The truth is you can't build a billion- rand project that will only serve a single- digit percentage of the population.
Within minutes I was starring at the Johannesburg Airport. Or should I call it a mall that happens to have a landing field? The energy at any large airport sparks off some exponential excitement. Even if you're dropping someone off, you'll wish they had packed you in their luggage.
The flight from Johannesburg to Harare is under 2 hours. That is just enough time for a light meal and bevy. Followed by a little arm-rest tussle whilst paging through a magazine and maybe some polite conversation with a stranger after a snooze. Compare that with an 18 hour bus ride to the same destination that includes a sleepless night and a 2-4 hour stop at the border in which you pay for your sins. I have no personal experience of this but I have been given a detailed warning and I believe the testimonies. True to the nature of a middle class vacation, I had no worries upon my arrival. I had a warm hug to welcome me, comfortable accomodation and a packed itinerary.
Harare is vibrant but dull and peaceful but slow. The city is bustling but the buildings need a lick of paint and you can walk late at night without feeling threatened but there are only a few places you can go before feeling like a goldfish in a mini bowl. Could somebody please switch on the street lights so I can see where I'm going? Strangely, I find all of this charming and familiar. It has quaint spots like the Avondale flea market which is open every day and the Borrowdale flea market which is open on Sundays. The best Chinese Food is served at Shangri La; I walked out with noodles in my hair, beef strips up my sleeve and fried prawn in my shoes. If you're interested in night life, there are a variety of bars, pubs and clubs to satisfy that. The weather is fantastic and allows for summertime bafoonery all year round.
I suppose the real charm in Harare is carried by its inhabitants. You never know if you're going to get a hand shake or a hug but you always feel welcome. This might also stem into a conversation in which I explain that not all South African's are xenophobic. As a neo-Pan African (whatever that means) I see that we all carry a nervous condition. In Zimbabwe, daily life carries on as best as possible under President Robert Mugabe's authoritarian rule, high prices and unscheduled blackouts. If I haven't made it clear before, let it be known that South Africa pretends to be a thriving democracy but only a few get to experience it. So similarly, South African’s continue to make the best out of poor service delivery, false promises, corruption and projects like the Gautrain which only serve a few. Both countries are in dire need of a follow- up revolution. The cracks are evident: South African’s are restless and Zimbabwean authorities are scrambling for a post- Mugabe solution.
Despite this, I can't wait to see the rest of Africa. I bow down to the City of Harare. Next vacation spot? Kenya!
Your blog is really compelling. I was surprised to find you'd gone on holiday to Zimbabwe, from what I've read in the British media, it doesn't seem like a tourist hot-spot. What are conditions like there for the average citizen? I suppose it's a case of people going about their daily lives in the shadow of political and economic difficulties? It sounds like a fascinating place. I'm also surprised to hear you say that South Africans are known for their Zenophobia - that's certainly not my experience :)
ReplyDeleteThank you!
ReplyDeleteSometimes you have to ignore media reports. This was my 3rd trip to Zimbabwe. The 1st was to Victoria Falls in 2005 and the political and economic situation were dire, to say the least. Over the past few years things have gone from bad to worse and then back to ok again. But the human spirit doesn't know inflation, poor economic policies, corruption or authoritarianism and so it triumphs through and over adversity. There is lots of peri-urban farming and Zimbabweans have an added advantage because they are an educated people. I could go on but basically the country still has lots to offer!
Unfortunately, South Africa has gained a reputation as intolerant of foreigners. During Zimbabwes upheaval, many Zimbabweans fled to SA for better opportunities. They were ill-treated by South Africans who feel foreigners are taking their jobs and social benefits from the state. In my opinion, the issue is yet to be ironed out and appropriately addressed by both governments.
Happy bloging :)